On a recent trip to the south, my partner and I had the opportunity to visit Hot Springs National Park in Arkansas. A history lover’s dream, this national park’s cultural significance is the star of the show. But, the nature isn’t bad either. There are plenty of beautiful viewpoints, hiking trails, and camping opportunities that visitors can take advantage of. Here’s how we spent 24 hours exploring Hot Springs National Park.
Hot Springs National Park Overview
Unlike most national parks, which highlight wonders of nature, Hot Springs National Park leans more heavily into the area’s unique historical background. Though it was designated a national park in 1921, its history as a go-to locale dates back much further. As far back as the early 1800s, visitors traveled to this resort town to experience the supposed health and healing properties of the thermal waters. As the town grew and expanded, elegant Victorian-style bathhouses were constructed on what is now Bathhouse Row. In its prime, Hot Springs was a destination that attracted even the rich and famous, including several baseball teams. However, in the 1960s the town started to decline, with most of the bathhouses eventually closing their doors over the next 25 years. Though its heyday as a spa destination has long passed, its fascinating story is preserved to this day.
Not to be outdone by its rich history is the park’s natural beauty. There are 26 miles of hiking trails, several scenic drives, numerous lookout points, and a 40-site campground by a creek for visitors to enjoy. You can also bathe in water from the hot springs – if you’re willing to pay. While there are no public pools to soak in, there are a few private bathhouses and hotels that pump in the thermal water to their facilities.
With all this in mind, we packed our bags and headed to Arkansas to visit Hot Springs National Park and experince all it has to offer.
The Night Before
After landing in Little Rock in the afternoon, we hopped into our rental car and made the one-hour drive to Hot Springs National Park. We booked a stay at Starlight Haven just north of the park, which features many unique accommodations nestled in the forest, including domes, tree houses, and canvas tents.
We checked into the Fordyce dome – a cozy, air-conditioned abode with a queen-size bed, kitchenette, and private restroom with running water. Outside were chairs, a grill, and a hot tub. Overall, I was impressed at how lush the accommodations were and loved the gorgeous forest views from the balcony. We relaxed in the hot tub until it started raining, and then retreated to bed for the night.
The Next Day
A thunderstorm raged throughout the night, but we were safe and sound inside our dome. The next morning, we headed out into the soupy weather to visit and explore Hot Springs National Park. Luckily, the park is free to enter and we didn’t need to show our annual pass.
For tips and advice on visiting the national parks, read our story below!
We parked at the Exchange Street Parking Plaza, a free lot with easy access to most of the town. Our first stop was breakfast, so we headed to Kollective Coffee + Tea for some caffeine and a quick bite to eat. We ordered bagels and coffee, which were solid and got the job done. Nearby is also the Mountain Valley Spring Water Visitor Center. Headquartered in Hot Springs, you can learn about the origins of this now nationwide company (you can find its green bottles in most grocery stores).
After breakfast, we took a quick walk to Hot Water Cascade at Arlington Lawn, the park’s largest visible spring and one of the only public ways to experience the thermal waters.
Hot Water Cascade
We arrived at Hot Water Cascade and its two pools of surprisingly hot spring water. We then headed up the stairs to the right for a better vantage point and to see the water cascading from the hillside into the pools.
After taking in the view, we continued up the path to connect with the Grand Promenade Trail. This roughly half-mile National Recreation Trail is less of a traditional trail and more of a brick-lined walking path located on the hillside behind the bathhouses. We walked for a few minutes before working our way down to Bathhouse Row.
Bathhouse Row
As the name suggests, Bathhouse Row is home to the eight bathhouses, built between 1892 and 1923. While most of them are no longer in service, Buckstaff and Quapaw Bathhouses still offer spa treatments. If you’re looking to soak in the thermal water, visiting these bathhouses is one of the few ways to do so. Lamar Bathhouse, while no longer in operation, now serves as the park’s official gift shop. However, we skipped these and headed to the Fordyce Bathhouse.
Fordyce Bathhouse
At about 28,000 square feet, Fordyce Bathhouse is the largest on Bathhouse Row. It houses the park’s visitor center and has friendly rangers on staff to answer any questions you have. It also is home to an impressive, four-story museum, featuring many restored spa rooms to give patrons a feel of what these bathhouses were like during their height of popularity.
Walking from one marble-covered room to another, each filled with many interesting health and wellness instruments, was fascinating. From vapor cabinets to 17-head showers, seeing the different devices truly gave me a sense of what it must have been like to relax and luxuriate here. There are also exhibits that highlight non-spa-related parts of the bathhouse, like the gym, as well as the park’s unique geology and history. And if you can, take a ride on the old-school elevator! Plan to spend at least 45 minutes walking around and exploring everything.
Left: One of several locker rooms throughout the bathhouse. Right: A 17-head shower, one of many interesting wellness devices.
Next on our agenda was finding one of the several drinking fountains throughout the park that pump water from the hot springs. Luckily, we didn’t have to try too hard. Just a few feet away, by the corner of Reserve St and Central Ave, we found a fountain and filled up our bottles. The water allegedly has healing properties, it was hot enough to steep tea in right out of the spigot.
Hot Springs Mountain Scenic Drive
With our hot springs water in hand, we hopped into our car and drove toward Fountain St just north of downtown and onto the Hot Springs Mountain Scenic Drive. This short but windy 3.6-mile drive takes you up above the town and offers several lookouts and points of interest. We quickly arrived at our first stop – Hot Springs Mountain Tower.
Hot Springs Mountain Tower
Hot Springs Mountain Tower is an observation tower and features the best views in all of Hot Springs National Park. We paid the $10 per person entrance fee (discounted from $13 with our America The Beautiful Annual Pass) and walked into an elevator that took us up to the lower observation room, which was enclosed and featured several exhibits on the park’s history. We perused for a bit before heading up to the upper observation deck.
This open-air viewing platform stands 1,256 feet above sea level and offers unparalleled 360-degree views of the expanse below you, including the entire park and the Ouachita Mountains. When we visited, the fog was rolling in and gave everything a moody, mysterious feel, which added to its beauty. After soaking up the incredible vistas, we returned to the car and got ready to stretch our legs.
Goat Rock Trail
Our visit to Hot Springs National Park wouldn’t be complete without a hike, so we drove about a mile to North Mountain to find the Goat Rock Trail. At 1.6 miles and with a gentle grade the entire way, this hike is great for the whole family. Note that there are few parking spots and no amenities, so make sure to take care of everything beforehand. We grabbed our backpacks, laced up our hiking shoes, and headed off.
The trail starts off on a gravel path that is easily walkable. As we hiked, we marveled at how green and lush the foliage was. We were quite literally walking through a green tunnel. After spending most of the morning in town, it was relaxing to finally get out into nature for a bit. We walked past several switchbacks and took in the scenery. With the misty fog, it felt like we were in a fairy tale. At three-quarters of a mile, we reached a staircase to the right and headed up to the lookout. While the views atop Hot Springs Mountain Tower were more impressive, it was still a treat to take in the rolling Ouachita Mountains. Head down back to the main trail when you’re ready.
Return the way you came for an out-and-back hike, or continue on to make it a loop, which is what we did. After trekking through the forest, we arrived at North Mountain Dr at mile 1.4. Finally, we headed right and followed the road back to our car.
Baseball History
As a former college baseball athlete, I couldn’t leave Hot Springs National Park without checking out some of its rich baseball history. The birthplace of spring training, Hot Springs welcomed the Chicago White Stockings (now the Chicago Cubs) in 1886 to warm up and prepare for the upcoming season. Over the next 40 years, many of baseball’s most notable players, including Babe Ruth, relaxed and trained at Hot Springs to get the kinks out. Teams have since moved their operations to Arizona and Florida, but baseball still remains an integral part of Hot Springs National Park’s DNA. There are several placards placed throughout the park for visitors to read, and while you can take a self-guided tour, we opted to just drive around and visit the signs we could find.
Lunch Options
Before leaving the park, we stopped off to grab a bite to eat. I had heard great things about Superior Bathhouse Brewery, which is both the only brewery in the world to use thermal spring water in its beer-making process, and the only brewery in a National Park. Unfortunately, we were in a bit of a time crunch and instead headed to Bailey’s Dairy Treat. This local favorite serves American comfort food, like burgers, onion rings, and a wide array of milkshakes. I ordered the cheeseburger and blueberry milkshake and both hit the spot.
Left: Bailey’s Dairy Treat storefront and ordering window. Right: The cheeseburger and milkshake were tasty and filling.
After finishing our meals, we said goodbye to our time in Hot Springs National Park.
Cost Breakdown of our Visit To Hot Springs National Park
Here is the cost breakdown for our trip (May 2024), not including airline and rental car costs.
TOTAL: $299.69
While our dome was easily our largest expense, there are plenty of other hotels and lodging in the area to choose from. And if you’re looking to camp, the Gulpha Gorge Campground inside the park is only $34 per night!
Our visit to Hot Springs National Park was a one-of-a-kind experience and a highlight of our time in the south! If you’re looking for help planning your next outdoor adventure, then hit us up! We offer bespoke trip guidance, custom itineraries, and more. Reach out below to get started.
